Open HP32SII



I would like hear if someone has a guidline to open a HP32SII. I would be nice if it could be illustratet with some pictures.
I have all so bought the new HP49G+ but I am really disappointet of the quality and the dailly use of it.



Broesen --

A recent post provided two links to detailed messages in the archives:

Pioneer internals

The Pioneers weren't really designed to be opened and repaired, so care must be taken.

-- KS


Yes, be careful. Are you certain it must be opened? Many problems can be solved by resetting the processor. Remove the batteries and touch the two battery connections together with the edge of a coin.


Hi Randy.

Yes, I think I have to open it because all keys (1st row to right) aren't responding any more!!



You should be able to make it work by pressing on the raised part of the bezel above the 1/x key. Many times it will continue work after the pressure was applied. If not, it will need to be opened and the foam pad under the keyboard connection will need to be shimmed to increase the pressure on the connector.


To permanently repair the problem, it is first necessary to remove the metal keybord cover. This is glued on, but can be pried loose. Starting at a loose part of this cover, perhaps just below the display above the top row of keys, push a thin tool underneath to begin loosening the template. A plastic toothpick from a swiss army knife may work, i use something i made. Working like this, lift the template and loosen successive rows of keys a little at a time until all the glue is quite loose. Don't try to rip the template off once just one corner is loose, or the metal will bend and kink.
Removing the keyboard cover reveals the lower 2 plastic rivet holes and also the source of the problem. The problem arises below the display in the middle, where there is an opening. The upper chassis has 2 prongs or teeth inside this opening. These teeth come loose from the inner chassis, at least in the case of my 32s. The keyboard circuitboard connector is directly below this area. When the chassis comes loose, the electrical connection becomes loose and some keys stop working.
If great care is taken, and with luck, these teeth can be reconnected to the inner chassis by pushing the upper chassis down onto the inner chassis. This requires one to remove the rear chassis iirc.

I can email photos of the area I have referred to with the keyboard cover removed, if anyone needs them.



You do not and should not remove the keyboard bezel to repair this type of problem with a Pioneer. Doing so will only get you a bent faceplate and you'll be no closer to solving the problem. Opening a Pioneer is done from the back, NEVER from the front. See for the proven method to open.

Edited: 28 Feb 2005, 11:07 p.m.


my previous thread regarding this problem:

also definitely read this:
skip to the end, regarding pioneers (i never tried the hair dryer method but seems good to me!)

somewhere Tony Duell commented on Paul Brogger's pioneer notes, but I forgot where.

regarding the faceplate:
yes one may simply snap off the lower heat stakes. How does one re-fasten these heat stakes or rivet holes, then? If one has only a screwdriver and little patience, and uses the shim method, I guess the problem gets solved.
When I drill out the 4 top and 4 bottom rivets holding together a pioneer, I like to fasten the chassis back together with little screws. I've used ones stolen from some electronic gaget such as a portable radio, because it's difficult to find screws that fit at the hardware store. Once *all 8* holes have been reconnected, the chassis is as good as new and does not need glue/friction/hope to hold it together.
As for the cause of and solution to the keyboard problem, I think i am the only one who has written about the 2 teeth coming loose below the lcd. I agree that it would suck to bend the faceplate. Once the faceplate is loose though, one is free to do a number of things:
-clean the display window (on older models) and the key labels.
-clean the junk from underneath the keys (on really dirty calcs)
-squeeze the middle of the chasis together until the teeth below the display re-engage, which fixes the keyboard problem with no shimming required.
-get 'creative' with parts swapping, repainting, etc (i liked the 42BS idea)

Softening the keyboard template glue with heat would greatly ease removal, and i'll try/suggest that in the future.

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