Gorilla Glue



#2

Has anyone ever tried a little Gorilla Glue on a toothpick under the edge of a peeled up face plate? The label says it works on metals and most plastics. I've tried it on other stuff, and it works great in general. But after it dries, it is hard to remove, so I don't want to use it if it's only going to stick to one surface. Please post if you have any experience with this. I'm hoping to repair my 32SII that's in excellent condition, other than the fact that the face plate is coming loose at the corner.


#3

Hi Gifron,

Well, I just fixed my 15c, which had a peeling back plate.

See http://www.hpmuseum.org/cgi-sys/cgiwrap/hpmuseum/forum.cgi?read=42223


But before I fixed it for real, I tried gluing it down, and it did not work. It is impossible to properly prepaire the surface for adhesive when you are just shooting glue underneath, and also, the plate acts as a spring--and if you calculate the force required to hold that spring down, you will discover that the stress at the edge of the glue joint is very high.

Also, the adhesive that is still under the plate is going to interfere with the gorilla glue.


Regards,

Bill

#4

I fixed a rather beat to a pulp 32Sii faceplate that had a bent/lifted display bezel with IC2000 tire cement. It is a black rubberized superglue sold a hobby shops to glue tires to the rims of radio controlled race cars. The faceplate has been firmly in place for a year now.


#5

I have tried super glues and found them to be dangerous with the white blush they release upon curing. It's very hard to get off the plastic case. I would not use Gorilla Glue as it too would be impossible to remove should something go wrong.

I have been using Goop Household contact adhesive from my local Ace hardware. It also shows up in craft shops. It's clear, dries fast and can be rubbed off metal and plastic when cured. It's similar to a very strong rubber cement. You don't have to be super careful, just get enough under the corner to do the job, press down to spread, let it up to dry for a second then back down. I use a small plastic jawed spring clamp to hold it down for about an hour. Pop off the clamp and rub off the exposed glue. You can clean out the grove between the bezel and case with a toothpick.

for reference: http://www.drugstore.com/qxp81910_333181_sespider/goop/household_goop_contact_adhesive_and_sealant.htm

If you're gluing near keys, be careful to use small amounts. If you use too much and squeeze it into the keys, you'll have weird key action if they work at all. You can recover from this by waiting for it to cure, peel the bezel back up and picking it out of the key hinge bit by bit with tweezers :-(

Edited: 19 Sept 2003, 9:37 p.m.


#6

I have a couple of 42S's with loose bezels that I've just decided to try your Goop on.

Thanks for sharing your experience here, Randy. I'm sure you've saved a vintage machine or two from a horrible fate.

#7

I've had good luck using Armor All to remove the white blush left by super glue.

#8

Yes, I tried a similar product to tack down my bezel corner, but it did not hold. The IC2000 did. I inserted it under the bezel with a piece of piano wire and pressed it in place until it set.

I really like contact adhesives for sticking down the corners of classic calculator rear labels that have been lifted for servicing. I never install the screws under the labels so that any future servicing will not risk more damage to the label.

#9

Gorilla Glue and other polyurethanes foam as they cure - not what you'll want to be cleaning out of a calculator.


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