I have a HP32sII that wont accept keystrokes, unless I press on the bezel. Then it works fine. I haven't taken it apart yet. Anybody run into such a problem?
I am also wondering if it is possible to send a calculator in to HP for repair? Anybody try it recently on a recently discontinued 32sii?


the way to fix it

is to carefully balance it on the

mainline Burlington Northern railroad tracks.

Wait for a train to come thru.

After the train has passed, everything

should be okey-dokey.


Norm - don't give away all your good repair secrets. Is this the method for repairing all those 34C's you have? I was wondering how you got those chips to stay in the case. Now we know. A forged calculator :^)


Norm: I went to the railroad track. There are 2 tracks. Which one do I balance it on? I dont want to make a mistake an ruin my calculator.


That was really funny!

You idiot, it doesn't matter which track you use so long as you make sure you are standing between the tracks as you balance it.


At the moment the train passes, so you keep it in place???

Have anyone tried this enough times to confirm if it works fine? Anyone? Ahn? You?\




If you are a really fussy repair person,
you can be extra thorough with a bit of ducktape
to keep it in place on the track.

As to which track (there are 2 ?) don't use

the one that is used for a side-spur.

If you use a sidespur, you'll be waiting
too long for your calculator to get fixed .



Hey, Norm;

let's get the train aside for a while. I know you like the LED's better than the LCD's, and I support your decisions, no pun at all (but I'd never use my HP42S to try tye tracks...).

I saw your post about the HP34C: any success? I also found one HP37E, "sandwich" type, with no revealing signs of being opened before, and without the rubber sheet for the keyboard. I had a lot of Spices in hands and that's the first time I opened one without it. At least it seems never being opened before. "For the records".

Did you try the "paper-tissue" I mentioned? BTW, is this the name you give to it? That sort of paper mixed with cloths tissue, or something like this? It's perfect to replace rought or removed rubber sheets. I've successfuly placed it in some Spices (except for the one I mentioned above, all of the others had been opened before).

That's all for now. Best regards.

Luiz C. Vieira - Brazil


Hi Luiz,

I am going to hold out for a 'genuine' rubber keypad membrane, rather than try to make one from scratch.

You may be right that some Spice calculators were assembled without the rubber keypad layer. Probably it was earlier ones with a lower serial number. But they are definitely nicer with the rubber pad, which is why they added it.

Although I put up classified ads, both for complete 34C, and also for parts of HP-34C (the rubber pad, the big IC chip) it is 'no luck' with HP-34C right now. There are not even any HP-34C on eBay at this time.

I was very lucky to have gotten one response from a classified ad from 60 days ago. That one was a real nice specimen, my favorite. I had to fix just a few minor things, and lubricate the switches, and didn't pay unreasonably. I paid a ton of money for one off eBay a couple of weeks ago, it has the display blanking malfunction and I believe it needs the rubber pad, and also to replace the big chip.

- Norm


You can also use the third (electrified) rail, if your railroad supports this feature.

Just make sure you have a working battery pack installed, else you may damage the electronics!

(When you're done, will you have a well-trained machine?)

- Michael


What about a "wheel_train"-ed machine?



Are you referring to training wheels? (American term for extra wheels attached to a bicycle so that it won't fall over.)

Anyway, after fixing a calculator using these methods, perhaps a better image would be the Funeral Train.

- Michael, who may get run out of town on a rail if he continues these posts.



I thought about the metal wheels in train compositions, that's why I wrote: "Wheel-train"_ed to be against "well-trained", as we expect a train wheel to pass over it. But I see it's not funny... |-( Sorry.

Luiz C. Vieira - Brazil



you may find authorized repair for it, as it would be the best applicable solution. Anyway, the symptoms indicate you have a simple problem that demands opening the calculator and removing the mainboard, no need to remove the keyboard contact plate. Your major concerns ar opening it, removing the mainboard, put it back in place and locking calculator's case again.

Removing the mainboard also means "separation" of the LCD contacts (polymers), and both keyboard and LCD contacts are assured by "pressure" locks. These locks are simply metal "tabs" that must be twisted (about 90 degrees) to hold the mainboard in place.

There are six of these tabs, all around the LCD, and each time you twist them to remove the mainboard and twist them back to hold it in place, they (the tabs) scratch the mainboard, so you should be care and sure you'll "twist" them the fewer times you need.

After removing the mainboard you'll see the keyboard has all of its contacts with the mainboard pressed by a separate foam. If this foam recesses and does not press the keyboard's connectors firmly, the calculator's processor will not "sense" keys contacts. So you should carefully increase foam's pressure (by adding tape between the foam and the keyboard's connectors) and rebuilt everything back together.

I still think authorized HP repair is the best way, mostly because they will probably (and it's highly certain) send you a new unit. Well, there are those who will tell you a new unit may be worst than the one you have, so the decision is yours.

If you need extra advice on doing the repair by yourself, let us know. If you believe you do not have the skills to do it, I certainly will not encourage you to "give it a try". Instead, give HP Authorized Repair Center a try...

I'd also think twice before going to Norm's solution... ;^D (Hey, Norm; give Nick a chance...)


Luiz C. Vieira - Brazil


I have a hp 20s that I took apart a while back that I'm practicing with. It had a similar problem. The row with the 5 key didn't work, unless I pressed the bezel.

I see what you mean. After adding paper on top of the foam. I am using the smooth paper that postage stamps glue on. I put it back together. No life to the 20s. I suspect I pushed the paper too far down and deprived some other contacts further down underneath the plastic contact strip. I will try again with tape, as you suggested.

I am wondering how many times will the metal twists turn, before they break?


I put sticky tape under the contacts. That seemed to do the trick. The 20s seems to be working well now. I had a bit of problem snapping the calculator back together. And the metal twists survived a my second twist (third, counting the factory istallation).
Thanks for your help.

Norm, the train is late today. I'll have to go back tomorrow.


Hey, Nick; that's good news! Thank you for your feedback.

I forgot to mention: look out for ElectroStic Discharges (ESD); take precautions, O.K.?

About the strips: I think if you do not bend them too far (I try to keep it in a less-than-90_degrees profile) they will survive after about a dozen twist-untwist porcedure. I can tell you I have gone that far or even more in one single Pioneer.

There are two two other things I have to tell you.

1) As you may have noticed, the two bottom strips (thanks; I'm collecting English terms as I see them replcaing mine...;^) at the extreme sides are different of the other four ones. They have two angled edgeds while others have two small tabs (strips?)at each side, like small forks, to made electrical contact. It's not critical, because if you look at the conections face of the mainboard, you'll see there are at least four "pins" connecting the positive pole (batteries). The tip is to slightly bend the small tabs that exist in the fork-type strips in the same direction they are already bent, before untwisting the strips when removing the mainboard, so they will scratch the surface slightly too, while you'll have to carefully straighten them back when they are under the mainboard's hole so you can remove it.

2) when you are placing the mainboard back, make sure you press it a little while you are twisting the sritps (I know there is a best sequence, but I did not stop to reason about it). This way the "small forks" will not scratch the mainboard too deep and when you release the mainborad (cease the preassure) it will remain a reasonable amount of pressure over both polymers and the keyboard's foam.

In time: the use of tape under the keyboard's contacts is not my idea; instead it was posted a few days ago by one of ours valuable contributors and I tested it so it works great.

About reassembling the case: the "trick" I use is to tear small slices of plastic appart from the border of the top (melted) internal posts (five or six?) so they allow being inserted back without much preassure and they still keep holding the case. The four ones that can be accessed outside after removing the batteries compartment cover I use one of both: heat glue or, when available, small screws. I prefer the second one, the problem is to find the d.. screws that fit in there.

Success. And let us know about the final results...

Luiz C. Vieira - Brazil


Oh, yes, very important.

Even the small quantity of fat in your fingers will be enough to "contaminate" the polymers' surface. And it's easily removed with alcohol.

Be sure cleaning all of thiese surfaces when reassembling the mainboard back in place (unlsee you do not touch them):

1 - mainboards "zebra" contacts for the LCD and keyboard
2 - both polymers (and take care assembling them back the way they were)
3 - keyboard contacts - take special care not rubbing them much enough to remove the carbon surface; in fact, avoid touching them so you'll not need to clean them.

If I remember something else, I'll post again.

Luiz C. Vieira - Brazil

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