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Hi, Randy;
a few weeks ago, I sent a large PDF file to David Hicks with scanned images Actual view) showing how to remove the fullnuts' LCD in a step-by-step procedure.
I'll upload it in a site but I personaly preffer sending an e-mail with the downaloading address to those who want the file. The site is not my own, so I must be care.
Gimme a couple of minutes and I'm sending you an e-mail, O.K.?
Anyonwe else? (I'll send e-mails with this address to regular MoHPC contributors and visitors only; sorry, folks)
Cheers.
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Randy,
Check out this old discussion (from archive 6): http://www.hpmuseum.org/cgi-sys/cgiwrap/hpmuseum/archv006.cgi?read=10212
where Tony Duell and I exchange ideas and results.
Good luck - and be carefull!
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... I must agree it is a lot safer than removing the LCD assy (dessoldering).
I have successfuly removed fullnuts LCD's for three times in order to replace dammaged units. But it was in specific conditions: everything (soldering iron, my wrist, calcualtor's contacts) electrically connected to the same condutive grounded reference.
Hope you have success!
Thanks, Dave.
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Thanks to all for the responses. Once again, many great nuggets of knowledge buried in the archives. I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction!
Thanks, Luiz for the pdf file.
Now, if there was some way to index the archives and strap a search engine on the resulting database...
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You might want to try feeding a slip of paper undr the display and trying to knock off the dirt. I try this before I resort to the desoldering station. Sometimes you need to feed it from the side, others from the top. Sometimes helps to fold the end you insert over to give you some better brushing action. Works around 90 percent of the time for me. I also have a thin piece of plastic (teflon, I think) that works even better.
If you have to unsolder the display only unsolder the conenctions to the keyboard. Avoid melting the top screw posts. Be careful of the connections to the back of the LCD cricuit board. Many times these are just barely making contact (and are often open circuits in "dead" machines. When working on machines I always go down the row of display pins with a metal probe and gently tug on each one looking for bad connections.
Finally, make sure you remove all the solder flux. Displays that only display when a key is held down are often caused by residual solder flux. Keep alcohol off the clear display window, otherwise you will be removing the display again to polish off the white stain it causes.