HP 15C Limited Edition


Just bought it in Spain. For those interested, production number is 22628.


Mine just came with the mail, number 22626.
I could not afford the original when that was on the market so I can't compare the quality but it looks and feels solid.



And congrats to you both.

Just be careful with the keyboard. Based on what I saw and felt, main keys are molded together with the case, like in the HP12C Platinum. You'll notice the difference when slightly pressing the [f] or the [g] and gently moving any of them sideways. They are not part of the case. But if you try the same thing with any other key you'll feel they are attached to the calculator case.

My suggestion/advice would be: never press the keys all the way down or as if pulling them in the direction of your own body, try to press them closer to their upper edge, with about 45º angle. I guess the 'poor man drawing' below illustrates what I surely failed to explain:

This helps preventing the two small plastic strips that hold the key to break and let it loose. I have seen many HP12C Platinum with this same problem: users confessed they punched the keys the same way they used to do with regular HP12C, AKA gold.

Hope this helps to keep them working and living longer.


Luiz (Brazil)


That's a pretty good drawing for a poor man.


Agreed. Quite a professional rendering.


Guys, I'm blushing...

I used Paint Shop Pro 4.10, 1995, written for Windows 3.11/95, to draw this picture, mostly because I could not find the English words I needed to describe. If a picture paints a thousand words (70's?), then I think I got it...

In time: do you agree with the described procedure? Fact is I should have placed the finger tip a tinny little bit to the right.


Luiz (Brazil)

Edited: 28 May 2012, 4:01 p.m.


The old Paint Sho Pro's are better than the new ones, imho :)

It was a slick program until version 6 or so, but look what a heavy monster including lots of bloated extras it has become now.

Edited: 28 May 2012, 4:25 p.m.


Oh, that explains! I always wondered why the yellow and blue keys were loose and rattling when shaking the case, while the others did not.


Just be careful with the keyboard. Based on what I saw and felt, main keys are molded together with the case, like in the HP12C Platinum.

Trying to figure how they would do this. All I can figure is that after injecting the plastic into the mold, the keys are cut out on three sides, leaving the bottom attached to act as the "hinge". Is this how it's done?



Well, this was done on the 48 series. I think it was also done on the original 10bII as well (the one that had rubber edges). No other units have done it this way. AFAIK, it is like the 30b, 50g and every other unit in the past while where there is a "keyboard tree" that has all the keys connected to it (similar to those old plastic model kits if you are familar with those)

I would be interested to see a picture of one that has the keyboard built into the upper shell if that really is the case.



Yes that is a great way of describing it. The "sprue" is the hinge.

On the 48, breaking those connections was the kiss of death. The ENTER key was most susceptible. I had one of the two sprues break on a 48GX Indonesian. Amazingly enough, even with the defect disclosed, I sold it for a goodly sum back in the 48G+ days wen there was low confidence about future products. (Boy, did the 50G take down the 48G market! Big time!)


Hello, Luiz!

Although, at first glance, it seem to be a footnote, this is an important instruction for those who are using the new calculator in a daily work!!!



I have been keyboard `testing to destruction' (i.e., heavy use) on a daily basis for 8 months with no problems. My HP15c LE goes everywhere and it even has an impression of my car keys now moulded into the side, but it has proved itself very robust and all the painted legends are still as new. I have a several spare boxed units so I don't feel any need to treat it with kid gloves like my HP28s.



Tnx for the warning, great illustration!

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