THANKS to Diego Diaz



#8

...........thousand time thanks

forTHIS

I had a problem with my 41CX fullnut, but I was scared to open it, not sure to create muore problems than a simple improper shutting-off..........

so that I fixed it following your advice, just unscrewing ligtly and tightening the rear downer screws: I solved the problem!

thank-you again!

Ciao e Grazie mille!


#9

Hi Aurelio,

And thank you too for the feedback.

It's nice to know my post is still useful after 5 years!... :-)

Cheers.

Diego.


#10

At that time I've not yet met this wonderful place!... :-)

So that I' trying to recover now the "lost" time.... :-)

Cheers from Italy

Aurelio

#11

Hola, Diego;

please believe me, everything you have done here is/are still up-to-date and useful, amigo. You can be sure about that.

Saludos!

Luiz


Edited: 27 May 2012, 2:12 p.m.

#12

Ciao Diego, "never play the victory horn before the battle is won"....may I so in english translate what, here in Italy, we say: "non cantare vittoria prima del tempo"......?

Unfortunately the "no surgery" repairing, works for a whole day only!
And this time I did not follow my personal rule "don't open when it still works, opening you can get a worst situation...." and infact....

Now it does turn on at all, the diagnosis: cracked posts!

One of the downer ones, expecially, is completely broken...I'm pretty sure that somebody tried to fix it already in the past, maybe the previous owner, 'cause there are traces of glue.... anyway..

I've removed the CPU and tried the repairing job with the "Geoff" method, ofcourse not first to have pristined the one which was completely broken, like cut off..
It worked great with both the downer ones which now I can tightened with a proper torque, but not yet with the upper one on the right. I've just reglued trying for the second attempt and we will see...................
............as I said never...."non cantare vittoria prima del tempo"

I should like to try the brass permanent fix repairing from the archives here, but I cant contact aj04062 for more details and for thr brassed posts....somebody else has already tried this way?


Edited: 30 May 2012, 11:17 a.m.


#13

I performed the metal standoff post fix for my 41CL donor on the lower posts. Because drilling out the 41CL's mounting holes would cause damage according to Monte, I used an 11/64" square nose end mill bit to remove the plastic posts below the top surface of the keyboard PCB about the thickness of that PCB. I then sized down two 2-56 threaded standoffs to a bit below 11/64" outside diameter and cut to length (forgot how long I made them). I epoxied the posts into place, and reinstalled the back shell to hold the posts in position until the epoxy set (a full 23-24 hours). Make sure to not use too much epoxy, you will need to scrape some off to be able to seat the interconnect assembly. Two 2-56 binding head screws completed the repair.

Edited: 30 May 2012, 6:39 p.m.

#14

Ciao Aurelio,

Sorry to know of your repeated trouble.

But certainly not surprise, since you find the Auto-OFF time out trouble, and determined that the screws/posts are not tighten enough; it is clear that the calc must be opened and the post re-worked.

The repair method and success depends much on what you find after taking your calculator apart, and Geoff's directions are for sure the best source for a proper solution guidance.

Hope you get your unit completely fixed in short.

All the best from Dom. Republic.

Diego.


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