WP34s V3 - Build Number recommended?

[Thomas Chrapkiewicz]

So, I'm ready to flash a WP34s up to V3.

What build number is recommended (and why?)

Thanks,
TomC

[Paul Dale]

The latest from SVN because v3 is still a work in progress and we're pretty much just bug fixing at this stage.

- Pauli

[Thomas Chrapkiewicz]

Is there a current bug list?

Thanks,
TomC

[Paul Dale]

It is empty at the moment :-)

We try very hard to keep on top of this.

- Pauli

[Thomas Chrapkiewicz]

The link in the article (here in the museum) led me to sourceforge v22. Is this the correct one?

[Paul Dale]

Nope, that is version 2.2.

There isn't a proper release of version 3 yet. You'll have to grab it from subversion on sourceforge.

- Pauli

[Thomas Chrapkiewicz]

So, when I go to subversion, I find revision 2320, 2318, 2311, 2309,...etc...

Can anyone out there comment on what versions they have used and what the bugs are (or are not) in that version?

I would like to be certain to use a reliable version.

Thank you,
TomC

[Thomas Chrapkiewicz]

I just flashed 2306. It seems to work fine.

How do I find the manual for this version?

Thanks in advance,
TomC

[Morten Nygaard Åsnes]

Quote:

---

I just flashed 2306. It seems to work fine.

How do I find the manual for this version?

Thanks in advance,
TomC

---

I'd just flash the latest one. Hopefully there'll be less bugs with each revision ;-)

The manual isn't updated with every revision anyway, so just grab the latest one here http://wp34s.svn.sourceforge.net/viewvc/wp34s/doc/Manual_wp_34s_3_0.pdf

I flashed 2310 a couple of days ago, and applied the new overlay. Works great so far.

http://i.imgur.com/9M2Vr.jpg

Edited: 25 Jan 2012, 7:02 a.m. after one or more responses were posted

[Walter B]

Your picture link shows only 7/37 of what could be shown ;-)

[Didier Lachieze]

maybe it's a teaser, and we'll get the full picture once V3 will be officially released ;)

[Morten Nygaard Åsnes]

Quote:

---

Your picture link shows only 7/37 of what could be shown ;-)

---

Better now? ;-)

[Paul Dale]

A creature of beauty :-)

- Pauli

[Jim Johnson]

I've been playing with my WP34S (modified from an HP30b) and was curious about the amount of time that the "ON" button needs to be pressed to turn on the calculator. Mine seems to take more than a brief press to turn it on. Often I'll have to press the button twice to turn it on, or press it for what seems to be from a 0.25 to 0.50 sec. I've tried an unmodified HP30b and an HP20b and the "ON" button responds immediately.
Is there a key scan timing issue? Or do I just have a bad HP30b?

[Jeroen Van Nieuwenhove]

I can confirm this behaviour (30B, v3), so it certainly is not something related to your unit. I noticed it as well initially, but I quickly adjusted to pressing the on-key just long enough. I'm curious as well to know whether this keypress latency was built in by design. Given the fact that the original 30b fires up immediately, it doesn't look like a hardware issue.

[Marcus von Cube, Germany]

The hardware supports a debounce value for the ON function which I have set to a somewhat higher value than the original firmware. It prevents accidental turn on.

[Eric Rechlin]

I've noticed this too, and I'm wondering, have you changed this over the last few months? It seems longer than it once was. Any possibility of making it a little shorter?

Eric

[Marcus von Cube, Germany]

I'm not aware of any changes to the value, at least not recently. V3 and V2 share the same low level routines.

[Jim Johnson]

My recommendation would be to lower the debounce value. It's very frustrating to hit the "ON" key and have the calculator sit there with a blank screen. (I'm using ver. 2283)

[Walter B]

It's a very old feature - observable in build 1108 already :-)

[Eric Rechlin]

Actually, I think I know what it is. At first I only used a 20b as a 34S, and now I am using a 30b. The 30b keyboard is different so it makes this more noticeable.

Eric

[Marcus von Cube, Germany]

It's not only the keyboard difference. The debounce delay was longer than the time the key connects when clicked and immediately released. I've reduced the delay now.

[Thomas Chrapkiewicz]

I agree (in theory), I flashed 2320 and it locked up the machine (twice), so that is why I 'backed up' to 2306.

Thank you for the link (below) to the V3 manual.

Regards,
TomC

[Paul Dale]

Can you provide any details as to what you were doing when the crash occurred?

- Pauli

[Thomas Chrapkiewicz]

After flashing, I toggled 'debug on' then 'debug off'.

The display then went to: 0.

...and the machine no longer responded to the keyboard.

Perhaps the flashing process corrupted the machine; if anyone thinks this build should be good, then perhaps I'll retry the flashing.

TomC

[Marcus von Cube, Germany]

Turning DEBUG ON will quickly deplete the batteries. This is mainly meant to disable some power saving to allow hardware debugging and should otherwise only be used to unlock the SAMBA mode (ON+S). A hang is nonetheless not intended. An initial flash or major version upgrade is better performed with the ERASE button on the cable. We are still changing op-codes regularly so any salvaged (binary) programs or data are most likely causing trouble.

If you have a program on your V2 device and want to upgrade it to V3 you should send it to a matching emulator with SENDP/RECV so that it can be saved to disk and disassembled by Neil's tools. The source can then be recompiled for the new version. Saved library regions can be sent with SENDL n. They can then be saved from the emulator to a region (file) to be later disassembled for recompilation.

[Thomas Chrapkiewicz]

Thank you Marcus; good information.

I did not have any saved code; this was starting from a fresh 30b.

I likely messed up the flash process. I'll try again soon with the latest version.

The power thing brought up an interesting thought - I've seen the mods posted to include two AAA batteries; I wonder how workable it would be to install a (normally closed) pin jack on the WP34s to plug in an external dual AAA (or AA) battery pack - temporarily bypassing one of the CR2032s.

TomC

[Marcus von Cube, Germany]

Since you can do backup/restore to/from flash, there is no need to keep a battery connected to avoid memory loss. Just do an ON+STO before disconnecting the CR3220s and connecting the external power pack. With the next power-on the memory is restored automatically.