restoring an HP11C



#2

ciao a tutti (Hello everyone)

I have almost completed the restauration of an HP11C that was
in a bad condition, but working perfectly

It's almost done, except for the logo that is drying, I have
painted with a silver paint and a very thin brush.

I'm very satisfied with the bezel, which has been done using
the 3M scothbrite

while I think the faceplate could have done a little bit better.

I have used a black permanent marker to touch up, but if you look
at the faceplate with a strong ligt you can see it

does anybody else has ever tried a different method with better results ??

Hope the pics will help someonelse that as to disassemble a Voyger ...
take care and enjoy the weekend !!
Alberto




















#3

Nice work!
Let me know if you would like a re-fab 11C badge. I ran another batch of silver cast ones.

-Dallas


#4

Hi Dallas, are you reproducing all Voyager series badges, or just the 11c ones ?

Thanks
John


#5

I have only done 11c badges so far; no one has been willing to toss a 15c job in the mail to me.

...however, if I get my hands on a 15c badge with decent form I will certainly cast a batch of them. A donor badge doesn't have to be mint with all the shinny stuff on the plastic. It just has to have a good form. I have been casting these in de-ox silver, enameling the badge in matte black paint, and polishing off the surface metal. Touching them up would be wiping it off on your jeans unless you scratch the paint inside the grooves. (In that case, just repaint and strip the surface off with a nail file to give that 'brushed' look.)


#6

I can send you one from my 2740B30986 unit. It appears to be fine, except the silver painting has vanished off. Is it a destructive process, that is, will I have it back when the mold is done?


#7

The process isn't destructive at all. I make a silicone mold from yours and use it to cast little waxes. Then I spree up the waxes and encase them in an investment of fine plaster. I fire the whole thing in a kilm until the wax is burnt out. Then I sling a puddle of melted silver into the mold, cool, and crack it. The actual hard part is cleaning up the badges to look good.

The costs aren't too bad, but I have a good relationship with the silversmith and get a decent rate for equipment time. If I was making only one, it would be one very expensive art project. But when I sell about 10-15, I break even and get a kick out of seeing new badges on old equipment.

So, yes, if you mail me one, I will get your original back and a shinny silver one in exchange for your loan.

My timeline depends a bit on my work schedule.

PM me for mailing details.


#8

You've got mail!

#9

Assuming you are running a batch of 15, what will it cost for a 15c logo?

#10

John, which model are you thinking about?

#11

That could be an idea,

what would it be the cost for one ?

take care Alberto


#12

By the way, this is how the logo looks now :



take care, Alberto


#13

I have been selling the premiums at $35, slightly defected at $25, and the runts of the litter at $20. (And the last slightly defected one went last night.)

Yup, last four. All goofy someway or another. But, they are solid silver and, depending on how skilled you were with a fine needle, some of the bits could be cleaned up. Regardless: sorry, Mates; that's what's left. If I had a world class shop at my disposal, well, I could do wonders for trademark violation.

But covering costs and materials is enough at this point.

So, Alberto: $20 and pick which one you want.

Bill, Assuming I get a heck of lot better at this and produce some beauties, I would run them at $40. If the same quality comes out, then the same prices will stick.

#14

Oh, Bill,

This is an example of a good one. (The little dark spot on the upper left hand is a bit of dust that snuck in there. And the yellow shade is due to the poor lighting I just snapped this shot in; this one normally had a very nice white silver look.)


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